A lot has changed for the better over the last 10 years. More environmental groups have made their information available online, and made this information easier to interpret and more useful to the public. Government assessments have also been made available, and are more transparent and easier to understand than ever before.

The community dialogue has also changed, and it’s encouraging to see seafood sustainability much more part of the discussion. It’s now commonplace to see recipes and chefs referring to the sustainability of species and encouraging diners and home-cooks to utilise lesser-known species.

Keeping the sustainability information on GoodFishBadFish up-to-date is incredibly labour intensive. State and Federal agencies update their assessments continuously, as do environmental advocacy groups such as the Australian Marine Conservation Society. Staying abreast of all this information and ensuring that GFBF accurately reflects these changes requires constant work. GoodFishBadFish is run without funding or support from any outside organisation. We have always strived to remain impartial and free of outside influence. We want our readers to be completely assured that there is as little bias in our assessments as possible – we seek only to provide information, and to do so in a way that is easy to understand and useful for the home or restaurant cook.

To this end, I’m currently in the process of working out what to do with the website. With sustainability information now widely available, it is likely that in the future the website will focus more on cooking information, strongly advocating (as we always have) the use of underutilised and lesser-known species.

While we are not currently updating the species sustainability ratings, there’s still plenty of useful info on the site for you to check out. Try the list of ‘GFBF Favourites’, or our ever-relevant ‘Quick Tips’. If it’s sustainability info that you’re after specifically, please try the AMCS’ Sustainable Seafood Guide or the stock reports at Fish.gov.au

If you have any thoughts, suggestions, questions or comments, please feel free to get in touch. You can email me at contact(AT)goodfishbadfish.com.au

Thank you for your support, and happy seafood eating!
Cheers, Oliver

Monday, November 3rd, 2014

Premier Dennis Napthine has announced that commercial net fishing will be phased out in Port Phillip Bay and Corio Bay if his government is re-elected on November 29, with fishing licenses to be bought back from fishermen as part of the $65 million ‘Better Bay Plan’.

The move seems targeted at securing political support from recreational fishermen. Whilst the Premier claims that his plan will “significantly improve recreational fishing opportunities through greater fish numbers in the bay … and see benefits flow on to local businesses”, a ban on commercial fishing appears poorly balanced against the losses accrued by commercial fishermen and the wider seafood-buying public.

The winners are clear: recreational fishermen gain access to the fish that commercials now take. The losers are far more widespread. Not only do commercial fishermen lose their livelihoods, but Victorians will be denied access to fresh, local and affordable fish from a sustainable commercial fishery in Port Phillip Bay. Where will this fish come from instead? Considering we currently import over 70% of our seafood, this policy seems certain to shift demand to international fisheries, where we cannot be assured of acceptable environmental and social standards.

The Port Phillip Bay (PPB) commercial fishery is widely acknowledged as environmentally sustainable. Biological stocks of snapper, whiting and other species in the bay are considered healthy and hence a ban on environmental grounds is not supported by the government’s own assessment of how fisheries in the bay are managed or currently performing . In addition, commercial fisheries for calamari, silver trevally, King George whiting, snapper and calamari in Port Phillip Bay have been independently assessed as sustainable by the Australian Conservation Foundation’s Sustainable Australian Seafood Assessment Program . Commercial fishing is highly regulated, with licenses capped, and limits to total allowable catch and permissible gear types.

Recreational fishing, by contrast, is difficult to monitor and enforce. Recreational catch of the key species in Port Phillip Bay currently exceeds commercial seafood catch – as much as 4 times more snapper is taken, by tonne, as that by commercial fishermen.

While it may be dressed up as such, this policy should not be mistaken for an environmental one. This announcement by the Premier comes less than a month after recreational fishing lobbies announced that they would be advocating a ban on commercial net fishing in the bay to the state government. These same lobby-groups will be included on the ‘advisory panel’ that Premier Napthine is putting together to make recommendations about the license buy-back scheme. As such, it’s very hard to see this policy as anything but a political play for the recreational fishing vote.

It would also appear that the government has failed to consult with commercial fishermen themselves, fishing industry representatives, or their own Department of Environment and Primary Industries, which is responsible for the sustainable management of Victorian fisheries. Commercial fishermen in NSW recently spoke out about the hardship in their communities, including mental health issues, that result from a lack of consultation and the myths perpetuated about their lack of environmental awareness. Commercial fishermen can be stewards of marine environments, and more often than not they are sensitive to changes in these environments. After all, they are out on the water most days. Protecting the livelihood of these individuals and their right to their way of life is as important as protecting the rights of the environment and recreational fishers. The balance of these needs is what true sustainability – environmental, economic, and social – is all about.

All Victorian’s have a right to the seafood from Port Phillip and Corio Bays. While 750,000 recreational fishers may take to the water annually, millions more are currently able to access the fresh local seafood from it thanks to the work of commercial fishermen. That we can eat delicious and abundant seafood out of Port Phillip Bay, home to a working commercial port and with a city of over 4 million people on it, should be a matter of immense civic pride.

Local food production is important. We should be preserving our sustainable local fisheries for the same reasons that we need to protect agricultural land in peri-urban areas – local food production has both social and environmental benefits. We should be creating ties to local industry, local producers, and local environments, not continuing the decline towards agro-industrial food systems in which connectivity and community have no place. A decision to end commercial fishing in Port Phillip and Corio Bays will mean that Melbourne seafood consumers are denied an important local food source.

Melbourne does not act like a coastal city in the way that many other Australian cities do. We do not have the strong connection to our bay in the same way Sydney does to its Harbour. But a stronger relationship with our coastal world will likely improve environmental outcomes, as people consider the impacts of their actions – such as littering – on this environment. The act of eating snapper from Port Phillip reminds us of the vibrant marine environment on the doorstep of our city. It makes us think of the generations before that have taken fish from these waters, of the rivers that flow into it, and of the need to protect these ecosystems. It connects us to the history of the city, to the industries that support it, and to the natural environments that we are a part of.

As a common-pool resource, Victorians have a right to enjoy the seafood from Port Phillip and Corio Bays. This policy will remove this right, and ensure that the only people able to enjoy this seafood in the future are those with the time, money and skill to catch it themselves.

We should be celebrating seafood from the bay, and ensuring that it is sustainably managed for future generations of Victorians. The rights of commercial fishers and seafood consumers must therefore be considered, alongside those of recreational fishers.

Oliver Edwards – Chef and Founder of GoodFishBadFish.com.au

John Ford – Marine Scientist, Department of Zoology, Melbourne University[/wpcol_1half_end]

contact@goodfishbadfish.com.au

We have used Barramundi here, but any larger, firm fleshed fish will work equally well.

Pickled Octopus originates from Greece, where it has been made for hundreds of years. In this recipe we’ve chosen to make the flavours more Asian. It’s an interesting twist on the dish.

Fish for sashimi should be incredibly fresh, and prepared so that it is without skin or any bones. We also prefer to use the upper loin of a fillet, avoiding the area closer to the tail that may have more chewy sinew present. Many fishmongers now sell pieces prepared specifically for sashimi. When slicing your fish, use a sharp knife to cut cleanly against the grain of the fish.

You can find recipes to make your own Ponzu Shoyu online or in japanese cookbooks-traditionally it is made by combining light soy, yuzu (a japanese citrus) juice, dashi and mirin or rice vinegar. We’ll be honest with you though.. for this recipe we bought a good-quality ponzu sauce off the shelf of our local asian grocer!

The squid can be stuffed ahead of time and cooked when needed.

This recipe features Cone Bay Barra. You can use wild-caught fish if it’s available, but as Tom explains, “Cone bay Barramundi is a remarkable fish. Farmed in sea pens off the West Australian coastline, it is sustainable and produced under conditions that do not damage the surrounding environment. It has a clean, sweet flavour and firm texture – characteristics that are from its clean tidal ocean habitat.”

So why not prepare this simple, elegant dish and enjoy it outside with a glass of vino, much as Tom would serve it.. you can even imagine a view of the Bondi sands.

You can add whatever soft herbs you have at hand, and we love using blood orange when it’s in season for its colour and flavour. Cook the lentils ahead of time and this salad can be thrown together in a matter of minutes when you’re ready to eat!

1.   Buy local - Buy local because we have some of the best managed fisheries in the world

2.   Buy fresh - Buy fresh for taste and health

3.   Diversify your choice - Try something new and spread the impacts of fishing pressures

GFBF Favourites

These species are those that we at GFBF feel we can promote without hesitation.. they are great sustainable options and their consumption should be encouraged. Some of these are lesser-known or under-utilised species, others are common favourites or sustainable stalwarts. This doesn’t mean that species not on this list should be avoided. Read their species profiles so that you can make an informed choice. The GFBF Favourites list will evolve and expand as we review and update all of the profiles on the site, so keep checking back for more.

GoodFishBadFish Tips for Purchasing Seafood Sustainably

Eat Local
In general, Australian aquaculture regulation and fisheries management is very good – so only buy Australian seafood.

Eat lower on the food chain
Small schooling fish are usually fast breeding and short-lived, making their stocks more robust and capable of withstanding fishing pressures.

Avoid larger, longer lived species
Avoid tunas, shark (flake), skates and rays, which have very few young and are under pressure from decades of overfishing.

Ask questions
When at fishmongers and restaurants, ask about origin, fishing technique or aquaculture method of their seafood. Ask suppliers of seafood to identify species by its Standardised Fish Name.

Diversify your Choice
Understand that there is a sustainable alternative available for every species and cooking technique. Trying less-popular and under-utilised species is not just good for seafood species – it will expand your cooking repertoire

Shopping choices
Be an informed consumer and signal your interest in sustainable seafood so that restaurants and retailers realise the demand for and the benefits of sourcing sustainable seafood products.

If you want to keep reading, have a look at: The Role of Consumers

For more in-depth info on sustainability and the reasons behind the differing recommendations of the various guides and recommendations, check out: Good Fish, Bad Fish? If only it was that simple…

Government Assessments
Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS)
NGO Accreditations
…..Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)
…..The Sustainable Australian Seafood Assessment Program
Glossary
Government Stock Assessment Terms
AMCS Terms
Resources

Government Assessments

Generally speaking, government assessments examine the status of the fish stock and often do not consider other (environmental) impacts of the fishing process. These impacts are often assessed separately and addressed on a case-by-case basis, and we discuss these in the profile where necessary. It must be emphasised that these issues are acknowledged in Australia and there are many examples of successful management changes that have reduced the fishing impact on the wider environment. These include:

• Closures to shark and sardine fisheries in SA due to sea lion and dolphin death
• Seal and turtle exclusion devices on trawl nets in many fisheries
• Larger mesh sizes and the use of different materials to reduce bycatch and undersized catches in seine net fisheries.

We certainly still have a way to go, however Australian standards are still better than those of the majority of countries from which we import our fish.

Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS)

The Australian Marine Conservation Society (referred to throughout this website as the AMCS) is an independent charity and environmental organisation dedicated to conserving the ocean and it’s wildlife. They publish Australia’s best-known sustainable seafood recommendations -  ‘Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide’ (in print, online and app form). The guide gives a generalised view of the sustainability of species nationally, employing an easy and accessible ‘traffic-light’ system in which species are rated ‘Say No’, ‘Think Twice’ or ‘Better Choice’. 

NGO Accreditations

GoodFishBadFish recognises two major third party sustainability accreditations in Australia – the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and the Sustainable Australian Seafood Accreditation Program (SASAP). Whilst other international accreditations such as Friends of the Sea are also seen in Australia, there are very few Australian products with such certifications.

The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) is the world’s largest and most recognisable sustainable seafood certification scheme. The global organisation works throughout the seafood supply chain to encourage and promote sustainable practices and seafood traceability, engaging fishers, retailers and consumers. Their distinctive blue eco-label identifies products that have been third-party assessed and found to meet the organisation’s standards for sustainable fishery management. While the MSC’s assessment process is not without its critics, the transparency of their certification criteria, community and stakeholder consultation processes and yearly auditing (with reassessment taking place every 5 years) makes the recommendations given by the group robust and credible.

The Sustainable Australian Seafood Assessment Program (SASAP) has been developed out of a partnership between the Australian Conservation Foundation (ACF) and the University of Technology Sydney (UTS). The program undertakes in-depth assessment to identify individual seafood products (rather than whole species) that meet their criteria for a sustainable wild-catch fishery or aquaculture operation. This acknowledges that a species may be managed, fished or farmed in a sustainable manner in one place, but exploited in another. To date, SASAP has identified 16 Australian seafood products as sustainable, and the program is being broadened to find more. ACF and SASAP have a long-term goal to develop an outreach program that will educate and aid restaurants in improving the sustainability of their menus.

Glossary

The terms used by NGO’s and Government agencies can be confusing. In the glossary below, we explain what the terms used in our species profiles really mean.

Government Stock Assessment Terms

Government stock assessments use two terms that may sound very similar, but describe different things: ‘Overfished’ and ‘Subject to Overfishing’. Essentially, ‘Overfished’ refers to total biomass, while ‘Overfishing’ refers the likely outcome of current fishing pressures. Hence, a species may be assessed as Overfished, but Not Subject to Overfishing. This would indicate that the species has historically been over-exploited, but that current fishing pressure has been regulated to aid the rebuilding of stocks. Alternatively, a species may be assessed as Not Overfished, but Subject to Overfishing. This would indicate that current stock biomass is considered good, but that there are concerns that current fishing pressure, if not reduced, could lower stock biomass to the point where it would be considered Overfished.

Depletion (or Stock Depletion) – Reduction in the biomass of a stock.

Overfished – A fish stock with a biomass below the biomass limit reference point determined by the relevant agency. ‘Not Overfished’ implies that the stock is not below the threshold. Now used in Commonwealth fisheries assessments where the classifications ‘fully fished’ or ‘underfished’ were previously used.

Subject to Overfishing – A stock experiencing too much fishing, where the removal rate from the stock is unsustainable. Usually defined as fishing pressure likely to result in an ‘Overfished’ status. It should be noted that some stocks are periodically subjected to overfishing as part of their management, with the intention of reducing numbers to a specific biomass considered suitable for future maintenance of a maximum economic or maximum sustainable yield.

Growth Overfishing – The harvest of too many small fish; where an increase in the legal size limit for the species would result in an overall increase in a fishery’s yield

Recruitment Overfished – The stock has been excessively fished to the point that it is unable to rebuild itself and therefore total biomass falls below a predefined limit.

Environmentally Limited – A stock with reduced biomass due to impacts other than fishing pressure, including environmental factors and ecosystem impacts such as habitat destruction.

Lightly Fished – Describes a fish stock that is not heavily exploited and in which total biomass remains close to the estimated unfished biomass. This rating may apply to a fishery for which there is not a lot of market demand or which has a very low market value, which limits the fishing effort applied to the fishery.

Moderately Fished – Describes a fish stock that is not being heavily exploited, in which catch rates remain less then natural mortality for the species.

Fully Fished – Describes a fish stock for which current catches and fishing pressure are close to optimal (e.g. catches are close to the maximum sustainable yield). Determined when stocks and catch rates remain stable, catch length and age distribution remains stable, and estimates of total biomass remain above a predefined percentage.

Undefined – Status of a fish stock for which no serious attempt has been made to determine exploitation status.

Uncertain – Status of a fish stock that might be overfished or not overfished, subject to overfishing or not subject to overfishing, but for which there is inadequate or inappropriate information to make a reliable assessment.

Underfished – Status of a fish stock that has potential to sustain catches higher than those currently taken. Not applied to stocks where catches have been limited to enable the stock to rebuild.

Sustainable Yield – Catch that can be removed over an indefinite period without reducing the biomass of the stock. This could be either a constant yield from year to year, or a yield that fluctuates in response to changes in abundance.

AMCS Terms

Say No – The AMCS has determined that species in this category should be avoided, due to concerns about overfishing or bycatch issues. Farmed species in this category include all finfish produced using open-pen sea cage aquaculture, whoich the group does not support.

Think Twice – The AMCS has determined that species in this catergory should be purchased sparingly. Wild caught species in this group may be heavily targeted or caught using fishing methods that damage habitat or are associated with high levels of bycatch. If farmed, the aquaculture method used has some conservation challenges.

Better Choice – The AMCS has determined that species in this category are a better choice, as they are not currently overfished, they are generally resilient to fishing pressure at current levels, have a history of stable catches or are caught or farmed using techniques that have a lower environmental impact.

Resources

We have used the following principle resources in compilation of the sustainability data on GoodFishBadFish:

Federal Fisheries: Fisheries Status Reports 2012 - Australian Bureau of Agricultural and Resource Economics and Sciences. www.abares.gov.au

NSW Fisheries: State of Fisheries Resources in NSW 2008/2009 – NSW Department of Industry and Investment www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/fisheries

QLD Fisheries: Stock Status of QLDs Fisheries Resources 2011 – Department of Employment, Economic Development and Innovation. www.daff.qld.gov.au

VIC Fisheries: Fishery Status Report 2008 – Fisheries Victoria Management Report Series. Victorian Department of Primary Industries. www.dpi.vic.gov.au.fisheries

TAS Fisheries: Fisheries Assessment Report – Tamania’s Scalefish Fishery 2008/2009. Tasmania Aquaculture and Fisheries Institute. www.imas.utas.edu.au

SA Fisheries: Ecological Assessment of the South Australian Marine Scalefish Fishery 2011. SA Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities. www.sardi.sa.gov.au

WA Fisheries: State of the Fisheries and Aquatic Resources Report 2011. WA Department of Fisheries. www.fisheries.wa.gov.au